"I treat my vines with hardly any chemicals. Ladybirds are the best insecticide I know." It only takes Jean-Luc Matha a few minutes to bowl people over.

To understand the man he is, you should know that Jean-Luc has worked at Bruejouls, on the self-same 16 hectares of vineyards in Aveyron, for 35 years. So, he knows his land at least as much as he knows his profession — you could even say that Jean-Luc is the embodiment of the Marcillac valley. His moustache, his gift of the gab and his overall character are highly endearing. This simplicity, this love of the winemaker’s craft and the art of good humour are reflected directly in Jean-Luc’s wines. His Laïris and Pèirafi cuvées have even become emblematic of the appellation. And he also produces whites, rosés and a wine that you drink, as he himself says, when the main aim is to quench your thirst. Give him a call before dropping in on the estate. There’s no doubt that the smaller appellations always give us a pleasant surprise.

"I treat my vines with hardly any chemicals. Ladybirds are the best insecticide I know."

Tips nearby: 

L’Auberge de l’Ady: In Valady, 20 minutes northwest of Rodez, this is a lovely restaurant in a red-sandstone village. The cuisine is prepared with a passion, and is a modern vision of the traditional Aveyron terroir. The produce comes from local markets and farmers, such as foie gras with saffron, pork shank confit with green tea and verbena, and wild Skrei cod. There is an excellent wine list, especially for AOC Marcillacs.

Les Chambres de l’Ady: This auberge is in Valady with four comfortable and contemporary rooms in a vineyard setting in the heart of the AOC Marcillac. The inn is committed to an ecological approach, with — for example — bathroom products made from grape extract and organic vine water.